Our crew walked about 13 miles Wednesday from Rosalie Lake to Upper Crater Meadow. We made camp in some trees near two pack llamas and an evil horde of mosquitoes.

It got cold last night. Cold enough to freeze our water filters, whiten our tents with frost and stiffen damp clothes into cardboard. This morning we all admitted that cuddling up to the llamas sounded like a good idea.

Despite the cold, we slept OK thanks in part to ear plugs and Tylenol PM. This powerful two-part nighttime ritual is especially popular with Emily. She calls it going to her happy place.

Right now we're about halfway to Purple Lake. That's where we hope to camp tonight.