One of the most fascinating characteristics about mountains is how different they look from different angles. Take Mount Whitney, for example.

Sitting here at Guitar Lake directly below Whitney's massive west face, the mountain looks nothing like what you see in postcards. As opposed to the famous east face, which rises to the sky like a sharp fang, the west face is composed of a never-ending series of broken cliffs, ledges and loose rocks called scree.

It is still an impressive sight, however, completely dominating my field of view.

Storm clouds have threatened to rain on our parade all afternoon, but right now the bright sunshine is keeping them at bay.

Hopefully the trend continues as we plan to summit Mount Whitney by midday tomorrow, then spend our final night out at Trail Camp. It has been an incredible journey, and I can't wait for you to see the photos that Tomas Ovalle has taken. Hopefully his satellite phone, which so far has been as useless as perfume on a bear, will work from the summit and you will be able to see the sights that we have experienced on this trip.

Posted by Marek Warszawski at 06:00 PM | Permalink | Comments (4) | TrackBacks (0)

What an epic day.

The climb over Forester Pass was as long and grueling as I remember from my last visit here 12 years ago. Up, up and up with nothing but rocks and tarns (a small glacial lake) and marmots to keep you company.

But delicate beauty can even be found in this rugged alpine setting. Nestled amid the dry slopes and ridges above 12,000 feet are bright red flowers of rockfringe. How these flowers arrive in such a place boggles the mind.

When I finally arrived at the pass after a 3.5-mile climb, I threw up my fists in exultation and yelled to the heavens, "I am on top of the world!" Yes, it felt that good.

Emily and Jim, who were waiting for me, both had a good chuckle at my enthusiasm. The hike down from the pass toward Tyndall Creek was nothing short of spectacular. Rising on our left were Mount Tyndall (14,019 feet) and Mount Williamson (14,373), two of the highest peaks in California. Moving on the horizon to our right, we see the jagged summits of the Western Divide, and stretched out in front of us is an endless expanse of blue sky and green forest.

At the Tyndall Creek crossing we came upon a trail sign that read, "Mt. Whitney 16.1 miles." Jim and Emily said it was the first mention of Whitney since Happy Isles in Yosemite, more than three weeks ago. I noticed Emily's mood turn melancholy: right in front of her was evidence that this adventure would soon end.

Tomorrow, we head due south for Crabtree Meadow, where we will come face to face with Mount Whitney for the first time.

Marek, Tomas, Emily and Jim camped tonight at Tyndall Ponds, just below Tyndall Creek and about a quarter-mile off the JMT. Tomas continues to search for a signal so that he can send photos; alas, no luck.

Posted by Marek Warszawski at 08:21 PM | Permalink | Comments (3) | TrackBacks (0)

Talk about a needle in a haystack ... our last pair of hikers found Mark Grossi's glasses!

When Mark returned, he blogged about forgetting he still had his glasses on as he took a dip in the Kings River. They were gone in a blink. He wrote that he had "given up on them."

Turns out, Tomas Ovalle didn't. Here's the story as quickly recounted by Marek Warszawski:

The next morning (Aug. 29), Tomas left their Kings Canyon campsite and went to the river to refresh. He figured he'd look for Mark's glasses, too.

The absurdity of that notion hit Tomas as he approached the riverbank: How in the world could he expect to find Mark's glasses, which fell into a swift river more than a half-day before?

And then he reached the riverbank, looked down ... and Mark's glasses were at his feet.

Mark already has a new pair -- the sunglasses weren't quite cutting it -- but Tomas is dutifully carrying the pair he found. We'll have a ceremony at the handing-over.

Posted by John Rich at 12:28 PM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

Funny how quickly things change in the mountains, and I'm not just talking about the weather.

When I woke up this morning at Arrowhead Lake, my stomach was tied up in knots. I felt weak and nauseous. And the hike up to Rae Lakes and the beginning slopes of Glen Pass were pure torture.

But then something miraculous happened. As I approached the pass where Jim and Emily were awaiting our arrival, my strength kicked in. I felt like a new person. Maybe it was the astounding view of Mount Brewer and the entire Rae Lakes basin. I don't know how it happened, but I'm sure glad it did.

All in all, we hiked 11.5 miles today, camping along Bubbs Creek below Center Peak.

Tomorrow we tackle Forester Pass. At 13,180 feet, it's the highest pass on the entire Pacific Crest Trail. Wish us luck! Hope those stomach demons don't reappear.

Posted by Marek Warszawski at 07:10 PM | Permalink | Comments (6) | TrackBacks (0)

I'm sitting on a smooth granite slab overlooking Arrowhead Lake and wolfing down dehydrated chicken teriyaki. Does it get any better? And except for the military aircraft zooming overhead, the scenery could not be more peaceful.

Today was a difficult day on the trail. We hiked about 9.5 miles from Upper Paradise Valley, gaining more than 3,000 feet elevation.

We met up with Jim and Emily yesterday evening, but they outdistanced us today and likely camped 2 miles ahead at Rae Lakes.

Tomas and I went as far as we could. Now, I'm having a relaxing moment watching sunlight shimmer off the water and listening to fish rise while waiting for the sunset. The sun is just about to go down behind the King Spur.

All in all, a little pocket of paradise.

Reception with our new satellite phone is improving. Alas, Tomas has not been able to file photographs. Tomorrow, Marek and Tomas tackle a major challenge: 11,980-foot Glen Pass. Still ahead is 13,200-foot Forester Pass.

Posted by Marek Warszawski at 06:10 PM | Permalink | Comments (8) | TrackBacks (0)

Mark Grossi rests with trail mates Jim and Emily at the top of 12,130-foot Pinchot Pass on the John Muir Trail. From here the group continued to Woods Creek Crossing where they spent the night Sunday, Aug. 27. Mark Crosse / The Fresno Bee

Lush greenery surrounds Evolution Lake along the JMT. The greenery and trees soon give way to the various hues of granite as hikers approach the treeline where very little grows. Mark Crosse / The Fresno Bee

Mark Crosse takes a self-portrait on a granite rock near Lake Marjorie on the John Muir Trail. Mark Crosse / The Fresno Bee

A fisherman walks the banks of Evolution Creek at McClure Meadow in Evolution Valley. The distinct granite butte at right is called the Hermit. Mark Crosse / The Fresno Bee

Posted by Renee at 05:57 PM | Permalink | Comments (4) | TrackBacks (0)

The John Muir Trail is not an easy undertaking. Not even for a week, and certainly not the final leg, which ends at the top of Mt. Whitney. Because Marek Warszawski and Tomas Ovalle know this, they're making sure they're in shape, even if their preparations are, um, different. Watch this video to see Marek walk around his neighborhood with a backpack full of rocks, and catch Tomas in his morning routine of riding his bike to The Fresno Bee -- 15 miles from his house.

Posted by Will at 03:57 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBacks (0)

The first day of any backpacking trip is a day full of adjustments. You must adjust to the altitude. You must adjust to the weight being carried on your hips, shoulders and back. And you must adjust to your new surroundings.

Tomas and I picked up our wilderness permits in Cedar Grove at 7:30 a.m. and were on the trail by 8. We encountered surprisingly few hikers on the Woods Creek Trail, our access to the John Muir Trail above Kings Canyon.

We camped the first night in Upper Paradise Valley. We'll reach JMT on Wednesday.

Marek's first entry using the new satellite phone was broken, probably owing to still being shielded by Kings Canyon. Check back as he and Tomas move toward the finish of The Bee's journey.

Posted by Marek Warszawski at 10:36 PM | Permalink | Comments (4) | TrackBacks (0)

Jim dives in the icy-cold waters of Wanda Lake at elevation 11,452 feet above sea level. In the background is 13,081-foot Mount Goddard at right. Hurley and his hiking partners -- Emily Franciskovich and The Bee's Mark Grossi and Mark Crosse -- camped at the lake, just below Muir Pass in northern Kings Canyon National Park, on Thursday, Aug. 24, 2006. Mark Crosse / The Fresno Bee

Emily sits on her backpack while she reads a book about Sierra natural history during a hiking break in Evolution Valley while hiking the John Muir Trail. Mark Crosse / The Fresno Bee

Posted by Jennifer at 08:18 PM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

Not 10 minutes after Tomas and I pulled into the parking lot at Road's End on Monday, a haggard figure emerged from the woods. It was Mark Grossi.

"Boy, am I glad to see you," he said. Photographer Mark Crosse reached the car 20 minutes later looking equally tired.

After Mark and Mark bathed in the river one last time, we all piled into the car and drove back to Cedar Grove for cheeseburgers and fries.

Mark and Mark dropped us back off at Road's End so Tomas and I could start our own adventure.

Today we plan to hike 10 miles uphill to Upper Paradise Valley where we expect that Emily and Jim will be waiting.

At least, they better be. I'm carrying 15 pounds of their food.

Posted by Marek Warszawski at 09:13 AM | Permalink | Comments (3) | TrackBacks (0)

We're back. We've returned from the John Muir Trail after hiking 77 miles in eight days.

Today, Mark Crosse and I hiked 15.5 miles down to Road's End in Kings Canyon National Park. After climbing Pinchot Pass at 12,130 feet the day before, we descended to approximately 4,000 feet. The adjustment is pretty big, as you can imagine, and most of the adjustment is occurring on our knees, because it's a terrible pounding that your knees take when you go downhill.

When we got to Road's End, Mark and I both decided to dive into the Kings River to clean up. We've been bathing in rivers and lakes for a week. Yes, it is cold. In my haste to clean up, I forgot to take my glasses off. And by the time I emerged, my glasses were downstream with a confused trout, who will probably develop myopia.

I've given up on them. You may not recognize me in Fresno this week. I'm the guy with the gray beard and the prescription sunglasses. I think I'll just be a passenger in the car when the sun goes down.

My first meal when I got back? A massive, greasy cheeseburger with great quantities of fries and a cold beer. I chased it with a cookie and ice cream sandwich. It was about 1,600 calories. I've lost five pounds.

Suddenly, I find a compulsion to shower three times a day ... to get a manicure ... to drink lattes ... to sleep on a mattress. Indoors. I love linen!

Posted by Mark Grossi [personal] at 10:17 PM | Permalink | Comments (11) | TrackBacks (0)

Aug. 27, 2006, 6:04 a.m., 34 degrees at 10,000 feet, Upper Basin on the South Fork of the Kings River

A fierce campfire burned all night just below the 10,000-foot level where some folks with inadequate sleeping bags were trying to stay warm. It looked like the flames belched three feet in the air.

I didn't stay up for the campfire last night. I climbed in my sleeping bag at 7:30 p.m. I needed the rest. It worked. I actually feel very feisty this morning.

We have already pulled three major climbs, including Muir and Mather passes as well as the incredible Golden Staircase to the Palisade Lakes. I stopped counting miles two days ago. Just tell me the destination, and don't tell me we just walked 11.5 miles the day before.

I ate 1,200 calories last night during dinner, but I am not staying up with the drain of energy in my body. I drained about a quart of water before bed. It still wasn't enough. I am replenishing with energy drinks and concentrating on more hydration as the trip goes.

I have four blisters on each foot. I don't think any of them will stop me. Old injuries are haunting me -- the downside of being a runner for many years -- but I'm accustomed to those pains. And the backpack is probably six or eight pounds lighter now.

Today, we will make our last major climb up to 12,130 feet to Pinchot Pass. Then, it is all downhill. That's when the real pain starts, banging knees, ankles and feet as we descend.

This entry was written Aug. 27 on the trail but published after returning to Fresno.

Posted by Mark Grossi [personal] at 12:44 PM | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBacks (0)