Whispered conversations stir me from my sleep. A giggle floats past. Once again my conscious mind becomes aware of the sonorous boom from the tent to my left . It rumbles low and deep, and is soon joined by a craggy, nasaly honk three tents behind me. Then a third camper joins in, all unbeknownst. Snoring in stereo.

Such is the nightlife in my purple tent city.

The folks that run the AIDS Lifecycle event have everything so organized, its unbelieveable. If you like to ride and camp, this has to be the most reasonable way to tour the state. There you go: A little known traveling secret.

My day begins at 5:15 a.m., generally speaking. Camp noises bring the day to life early. I dress, pack up my belongings, take down the tent, and scurry over to the port-o-potties to do my business.

That would be the downside of this ride. Port-o-potties are not easy to manage normally (women never sit), but exponentially difficult in riding clips. Suffice it to say, balance is everything.

Breakfast awaits in large tents and is served by unbelievably friendly volunteers. There is an express line, serving oatmeal, yogurt & granola, and fruit. The mainline serves something different daily but the choices are delicious. Breakfast burritos, scrambled eggs and bacon, cottage fries-- all of it delectible and thanks to the riding, guilt free.

Feeling a little sore? There is a sports medicine tent, staffed by sports trainers, chiropractors and occupational therapists. Just need a massage? Sign up at the massage tent.

Soon we head out into the beautiful day. After about 12 miles, we are greeted by one of the many rest stops along the way. When I say rest stop, think "mini camp, sans sleep tents." There is water and gatorade, port-o-potties, and lots and lots of snacks. And a med tent. And a bike repair tent.

To keep things interesting, each rest stop has a theme. Example: The prom. All the volunteers were dressed in various flouncy gowns, waiting on the riders hand and foot.

Later that same day, we reached our last rest stop, whose theme was "Prom after-party." The prom queen desheviled, the prom king drunk, groupies all in various states of rocking outishness to ACDC'S "Back in Black." All while still serving us.

At day's end we roll into camp, greeted by cheering volunteers, pounding drums, playing music, and peals of laughter. This mobile city appears to have magically transported itself: Medical tents, camp store, port-o-potties, all our luggage. We set up our tents, our living spaces, all according to markers laid out for us. We shower in mobile showers which are clean and hot, we dress in jeans and sweats and enjoy our fabulous dinners which are served by dedicated, kind volunteers. Tonight was a choice of chicken marsala or pork ossobucco. I don't know what the vegetarians had, but I'm certain it was good.

And then comes the evening entertainment. There is a talent show tonight. Comedians last night. Each night offers something different.

It is an amazing life, these days of riding and eating and sleeping and starting again.

Best of all, this fundraiser alone has raised $8 million, which will be used to assist those with AIDS.

That alone makes the trip totally worthwhile.